Cuisine

WHANGAMATĀ

Gather & Roam

IN BRIEF Taking café fare to a new level, the team at G&R is undoubtedly cooking up the best breakfasts and casual lunches on the entire peninsula, unexpectedly served in a gorgeous yet simple space within a large industrial shed at Whangamatā. WHY CHOOSE THIS

RESTAURANT? In the same way that Michelin guided diners to rural spots with its ‘Worth a Detour’ designation, a trip to this one-year-old venture of former French Café owners Simon Wright and Creghan Molloy Wright is almost a compulsory pit stop for any foodie on the road. Expect fresh seasonal fare, a buzzy atmosphere that welcomes young and old alike, and the chance to indulge in Simon’s great tasting food again. And again.

ABOUT THE CHEF Simon Wright worked his way to the very pinnacle of the industry before semi-retiring to the Coromandel. A protégé of Marco Pierre White in the UK and Martin Bosley at Brasserie Flipp before working in kitchens of the Auckland dining scene, he has always produced disciplined and delicious food that is daring in its execution. Fine dining was his forte at the French Café, so it’s interesting to review his thoughtful approach to café food. He now works from a large food truck right in full view in the ‘shed’, although this is a pretty fancy truck fitted with all the imaginable equipment a chef needs to play with.

ABOUT THE FOOD Anyone who had the privilege of the French Café whitebait sandwich will be in heaven. A little taste of luxury is served in a fritter within two crunchy slices of toast and a simple garnish of crisp cos leaves and unctuous lemon mayo. The seasonal bowl of tasty goodness – a

Buddha bowl in summer, a mezze bowl in winter – is one of the freshest and most desired dishes. Don’t miss the zucchini fries on the side, as in Simon’s hands they have just a hint of batter enlivened with fresh curry leaves and a mint dipping yoghurt for ultimate deliciousness. Also popular is a lovely soba noodle salad with poached chicken, prawn, coconut and chilli. At breakfast, some fine egg (always free-range) dishes abound, including

a great bacon sando, an intriguing Mexican ‘French’ toast, and lovely folded eggs with spanner crab, ricotta, creamed sweetcorn and fresh basil. And it would be a real challenge to find a greater smoothie to outdo Gather & Roam’s jar of green goodness, with its notes of mango, coconut water, yoghurt and maple to camouflage the kale that’s central to the drink.

ABOUT THE TEAM Overseeing this large, busy team is Creghan’s job, and there are few front-of-house folk more passionate about their work than she is. The Wrights’ move to Whangamatā after the sale of the French Café over three years ago was to enable and enjoy more family time. So it’s terrific to see their young son Miller and his cousin Korban on the floor, every bit second-generation professionals in the making when they’re not surfing, golfing or studying. Service is quick, caring and tuned perfectly to both locals and the visitors that stream through this popular seaside town.

OF NOTE A sideline of the Wright’s business is to cater for small, boutique events. Who wouldn’t want Simon Wright in their own kitchen, cooking his scrumptious, carefully constructed dishes? 121 Lindsay Rd, Whangamatā Check website for opening hours Breakfast $12–$24, Lunch $20–$26 gatherandroam.co.nz

RESTAURANTS

en-nz

2022-07-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-07-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://cuisine.pressreader.com/article/283360475761694

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