Cuisine

HOLDING THE PORT Penfolds Great Grandfather Rare Tawny NV (Australia) -1 $205 ★★★★★

MARY-THERESE BLAIR discovers the proud tradition of fortified wines.

I BELIEVE THAT most people are aware of the rule that a sparkling wine made in the méthode traditionelle can only be called champagne if it comes from Champagne. I’m less sure if people are aware that this also applies to a lot of other wine styles such as port. Port can only be called port if it comes from the Douro region of Portugal; a fortified wine made in the same style anywhere else in the world is a port-style fortified wine. While it is widely agreed that the finest examples come from Portugal, it must be acknowledged that there is a proud tradition of making fortifieds both in New Zealand and across the Tasman. The Australian examples have a great deal to be proud of, and when coming up against the OG ports they most certainly held their own. In fact, the fortified wine taking the top spot is a port-style fortified wine made by South Australian fortified stalwarts, Penfolds.

TASTING RESULTS ★★★★★ outstanding 4

★★★★ excellent 1 ★★★★ very good 5 ★★★ good 8 No award 6 TOTAL 24 TOP 5

1 Penfolds Great Grandfather Rare Tawny NV (Australia) ★★★★★ $205

2 De Bortoli ‘Old Boys’ Certified 21 Years Old Barrel Aged Tawny NV (Australia) ★★★★★ $47

3 Grant Burge Aged Tawny NV (Australia) ★★★★★ $43

4 Fonseca Porto Ruby Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★★ $37

5 Taylors 10 Year Old Tawny Port Nv(portugal) ★★★★ $67

1 TOP PORT-STYLE FORTIFIED WINE

THE LITERAL GREAT grandaddy of ports took the top spot of the ports on this occasion. Penfolds has a long and prestigious tradition of creating fortified wine dating back to 1844, and this rare tawny was created to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Penfolds in 1994. Only 1994 bottles of this incredible port-style fortified wine were created and it comes presented beautifully in a stunning latched gift box.

No doubt this is an investment wine with a price tag of over two hundred dollars, but when you consider that this bottle contains a minimum average blended age of no less than 30 years old, you can begin to understand why this is something really special, to be sipped and savoured or, depending on how much you like your friends and/or relatives, gifted.

This incredible tawny left the judges spellbound and all were in complete accord that it was the one port to rule them all. In the glass a deep amber hue invites you in, and on the nose aromas of raisins and toasted nuts wrapped in delicious Christmas cake spices and luscious toffee present with incredible intensity flow through to the rich palate.

The palate has incredible presence with layers of flavour complexity and volume leading to a spicy, lingering finish which is as elegant as it is powerful. (A)

2 / De Bortoli ‘Old Boys’ Certified 21 Years Old Barrel Aged Tawny NV (Australia) ★★★★★ - 5 $47

Dark raisin fruits with hints of vanilla, oak and nuttiness on the nose. Richly concentrated fruit and nut flavours flow through the palate with nuances of mocha and caramel with some toastiness providing complexity. A wine with lovely balance and fine structure that results in a smooth, lingering drying finish. (B)

TASTING PANEL

The judges that tasted the Champagne also tasted the port.

Those wines offering an outstanding mix of quality and price are awarded Best Buy status. Price points differ, depending on the varietal, but if you see the Best Buy sticker you can rest assured you’re getting a great wine at an excellent price. Look out for the sticker on wine bottles at all good wine retailers.

3 / Grant Burge Aged Tawny NV (Australia)

★★★★★ - 9 $43

Tawny in name and tawny in colour with a wonderful red hue. This lovely viscous fortified wine has spicy fruit notes on the nose and palate. There’s a wonderful balance between the fantastic acidity and fruit sweetness that keeps everything in harmony. The palate is complex, smooth and rich with an elegant dry finish. (B)

4 / Fonseca Porto Ruby Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★★ - $37 -2

This ruby delight has smoky spices on the nose with hints of dried tobacco soaked in crushed red berries and plums, and a spirituous character that is reminiscent of tequila. A fresh, bright ruby port with good weight, a complex palate and a lingering silky finish. (B)

5 / Taylors 10 Year Old Tawny Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★ - 1 $67

Deep red in colour with a slight amber rim along the edge, this tawny serves up a smorgasbord of raisins, berries, rich chocolate and almost caramel notes on the nose. These flow through to the palate as rich flavours balanced against the wine’s fine tannins and bracing acidity. (B)

Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2013 (Portugal) ★★★★ - 2 $56 (C)

Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★ - 2 $78 (C)

Galway Pipe Grand Tawny Aged 12 Years NV (Australia)

★★★★ - 3 $47 (C)

Graham’s Aged 10 Years Old Tawny Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★ - 2 $78 (C) Taylors Chip Dry Port NV (Portugal) ★★★★ - 1 $45 (B)

DISTRIBUTORS

(A) Asahi Beverages New Zealand

– asahibeverages.co.nz

(B) Hancocks – hancocks.co.nz

(C) Eurovintage – eurovintage.co.nz

PORT & PORT-STYLE

en-nz

2021-11-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

2021-11-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://cuisine.pressreader.com/article/282905208723522

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