Cuisine

WHERE WE ATE

New-wave tapas with flair and unadulterated dining pleasure in Auckland, the complete deal in Hamilton, and one of Christchurch’s very best brunch and lunch restaurants.

The Cuisine team checks out restaurants around the country.

AUCKLAND Alma

IN BRIEF Feed your soul with vivid flavours and a taste of new-wave tapas.

WHY CHOOSE THIS

RESTAURANT? Don’t be fooled by the stunning brick and tile work, which gives that first impression of a traditional Andalusian kitchen; this fiery menu delivers a lot more bite and glamour than the usual tapas bar.

ABOUT THE MENU It’s as stylish and as well designed as the surroundings. Executive chef Jo Pearson has clearly done her research, balancing a menu that includes luxury treats such as razorthin slivers of buttery jamón from Jabugo in Huelva, or whole New Zealand scampi drizzled with tomato and garlic butter alongside fabulous pork pinchitos, their clever little pear salsa served on a flatbread that is perfectly hand-sized for whipping out the skewer and devouring in a few delicious bites. Perhaps you’d prefer the mussel escabeche with kohlrabi, or if it’s tomato season, big fresh beauties in a smoky paprika butter nestled within creamy, tangy sheep’s yoghurt will fill you with glee and the whiff of an Andalusian/new Zealand summer.

ABOUT THE CHEF As the executive chef of Hipgroup’s former cafés and restaurants, Jo Pearson has overseen the design and implementation of menus for Auckland institutions such as Ortolana and Amano. With a fondness for Mediterranean cuisine, at Alma she is influenced by memories of an Andalusian adventure while teaming skilful cooking over an open fire with great knowledge of, and respect for,

fresh flavours and provenance. The result is innovative food that can still include a nod to the Spanish classics. A take on patatas bravas appears with kūmara as the vessel for a spicy chilli aioli, while an octopus Russian salad elevates the predictable potatoes, peas and mayo to an earthy, lightly dressed bowl of flame-kissed octopus, with finely diced pickle and potatoes that give just the right amount of bite. This is not your typical ensaladilla rusa.

OF NOTE The contents of the dazzling tiled bar at Alma are impressive, starting with an extensive list of Spanish varietals alongside our own home-grown tempranillo, verdejo and albariño. Of course, the famous sherries are there, but it is the delicious vermouth selection that deserves your undivided attention. You might also want to linger over their sizeable gin list, because you can’t do a good summer in Spain without a decent G&T.

130 Quay St, Auckland Check for opening hours POST-COVID-19 lockdowns Sharing plates $12–$90 09 801 6021 alma.nz

CIBO

IN BRIEF Exuberant, luxuriant, unadulterated dining pleasure. WHY CHOOSE THIS

RESTAURANT? If you are looking for the whole package, delivered by an outstanding team with an outrageous sense of fun, then a visit to this Parnell stalwart is simply a must.

ABOUT THE MENU They say that familiarity is usually only a mouthful away when you eat the food of chef Kate Fay. And they are right. Great technique and impeccable skill are at the heart of stylish plates with fresh flavours that lean playfully towards an Asian twist. Kate’s rock-star banh mi has become a firm favourite because

of her ability to elevate the familiar to the spectacular. It would be a tragedy to miss out on her sinfully silky duck parfait, and when the glorious fish of the day arrives wrapped in a big warm hug from peas and ham hock, you will be delighted by the support act of the most delectable salty-delicious clams. Magnificent dessert and cheese options abound and, of course, there is that legendary pavlova. If you know, you know... The wine list has some hefty big-hitters and a multitude of local tastes that are worth exploring.

ABOUT THE CHEF With more than 20 years on the pans and in the trenches at this award-winning restaurant, Kate Fay is still hands on and clearly in it for the love. She is highly respected within the hugely competitive New Zealand restaurant industry, her elegant menus are confident and ever evolving, and they are an important ingredient in the mix that makes this sophisticated bistro a celebrated long-term player.

ABOUT THE TEAM It is obvious that for dashing owner and host Jeremy Turner, continuing to polish and evolve the art of the restaurant has become his life’s work. He takes great care of his team and they reflect that care with both skilful service and an exhilarating performance that comes from the heart. Everything feels super-relaxed and it is absolutely all about the diner. Brad Sullivan shines brightly on the

floor as the man behind your perfect experience, and Christina Turner and Shazza Cooper do the hard but important yards back of house, leaving Jeremy, Kate and Brad to steal the show.

OF NOTE There is a reason that certain restaurants survive in these uncertain times. A meal at Cibo leaves you feeling that all is almost as it should be, despite our current anxiety and fear. It's a restaurant run by people who love nothing more than to feed us all and who have been doing that with great talent and finesse for many years.

91 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell, Auckland Check for opening hours POST-COVID-19 lockdowns Mains $34–$65

09 303 9660, cibo.co.nz

HAMILTON Mr Pickles Bar & Eatery

IN BRIEF Food and drink of the moment that play to a spectacular taste of the Waikato. WHY CHOOSE THIS RESTAURANT? With both the food and the atmosphere being the antithesis of pretentious, Mr Pickles somehow defies description – it’s best experienced in person while taking in the glorious views of the mighty Waikato River.

ABOUT THE MENU The seasonal menu is eclectic and designed to share, with a mix-and-match charcuterie option that has a banging meat and cheese selection. There is always a market fish option, currently lightly crumbed with fresh herbs and cooked in butter, served over fennel that has been braised and then charred and topped with crispy kale. It’s the Waikato, so the steaks are generous, char-grilled and smothered in horseradish butter, while the brined and double-fried Sichuan-coated chicken thigh with chilli garlic caramel sauce has fans from near and far coming back again and again.

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